You can do the arithmetic and figure the change in caster on a (say) 30 inch wishbone.ĭoes it make that much difference? Probably not. The aftermarket fitting moves the ball down about 3/4 inch necessary to insert the cast iron "doo-hickey" (technical term) and the ball center-line is probably about 3/4 inch down too considering the thickness of the rubber ball cover. In the original setup the flywheel housing casting is actually made to "clear" the arms of the wishbone yoke and the ball centerline is only slightly lower than the diamond flange with hole which the thin metal "cup" mounts to. Looks to me that the two are totally interchangeable with no effect on the position of the wishbone. The rubber had deteriorated due to the typical oil soak of the Model A, so I replaced it with a stock set up. Joe, could you elaborate on this? My car came to me with the cast iron mount w/rubber ball insert.
1926 FORD KING PINS FULL
But putting a 3" full length of pipe over the end of the axle while on the car and pulling hard is more likely to bring you to a worse position quickly. Porta-powers, frame straightening shops, and uber I-beams can accomplish a lot in the hands of a restorer. One could get lucky and correct camber or caster - or one could make one worse at the advantage of the other. A good "thumping" impact can curl the end of the axle upwards around the spring perch/spring/shock absorber attachment.Ī good side impact of the axle curls it backwards around the perch and can affect both caster and camber - although change to toe-in can be adjusted out.īending in the field is more a matter of luck. Hence the reluctance of many to use the cast iron "aftermarket" wish-bone ball attachments which does affect caster.Ĭamber is set by the position of the king-pins relative to the rest of the axle. Since the Ford axle is symmetrical in its construction, it can be installed one of two ways, and bending in the field to correct for caster angle correction could place an uninstalled axle into the hands of a restorer eventually, if not checked for straightness it could be installed with negative caster.Ĭaster is set by the position of the wish-bone on the transmission - the frame mount is "tilted" to match. Positive caster keeps the front axle tracking in straight ahead travel and also aid in returning to straight ahead after a turn. The front radius rods aid in keeping the front axle stabilized, but it can still be bent in a front end collision. Since the Ford axle is symmetrical in its construction, it can be installed one of two ways, and bending in the field to correct for caster angle correction could place an uninstalled axle into the hands of a restorer eventually, if not checked for straightness it could be installed with negative caster. Why they dont address correction of front cross member deviation of the 5 degrees is a mystery. Whats odd is that companies such as Bear, Bee Line, Weaver, John Bean, John Duby, and others market bending correction equipment which is tied to the axle itself. After receiving the print for part 5020A it does show that the front spring pocket in the cross member is tipped back 5 degrees. We're at the point where the pipeline is getting clogged on axles.Īfter advisement from Steve Plucker, and explaining to him that I believed that the caster of the Model A is established by the front cross member, he suggested that I send for the blueprint from the Ford Benson Research Center. Its a big job to rebuild an entire axle down to "nuts & bolts." One of the reasons I have four spare axles and one always in the pipeline. Anyone who dresses like me (cut-off sweatshirt and jeans) must be possessed of good sartorial taste.
Page wrote a similar service book for the "T." Seemingly some pix got "recycled." Victor Page in his "Model A Ford" book shows these rods/gauges being used - although if memory serves, his Model A book shows the rods applied to the Model T axle. This is shown on a Model T axle - but the principle - and the tool are the same as used on the Model A. The ABSOLUTE positive solution is to remove and de-mount the axle - and then to bend/twist as required to bring the holes back into alignment - and check that camber. Along with getting pushed back come change to toe-in (which can be compensated) caster, (which is built into the mount but can differ between right and left), and camber (which is built into the axle king-pins - and which can differ between right and left.) The typical damage is the passenger side wheel is "pushed back" probably from hitting things on the edge of the road away from sight of the operator. I have five front axles including the one on the car - and except for the one on the car (which I straightened) they are all bent. Almost ALL Model A have a bent front axle.
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